von grenada nach antigua
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dieser tage fällt es mir schwer erinnerungen in der richtigen reihenfolge wiederzugeben, es ist einfach zu viel los rundherum. ein halbes jahr kommt uns vor wie ein ganzes, aber nicht aus langeweile . gerade jetzt zb. höre ich zum ersten mal ´ne elvis-cd die wir wohl schon seit jahren durch die gegend fahren und noch nie gehört oder nur gesehen haben. jeder tag wartet also auf diese oder jene weise mit seinen abenteuern und atemberaubenden neuen entdeckungen.
so weit so gut, schluss mit dem geschwafel, wir sind wieder zu zweit und der frühling ist vorbei. jetzt heisst es wieder weniger feiern und mehr segeln.
wir wollen hoch in den norden hinaus ! wir starten bei gutem wetter und aller guten dinge, die navigation ist denkbar einfach. solange die sicht gut ist, sieht man die jeweils nächste insel einer inselkette die zwischen dieser und jener nördlichen breite und einer bestimmten und irgendeiner anderen westlichen länge liegt und die " inseln über dem wind " genannt wird. wir wollen Tino auf Antigua besuchen, der nördlichsten insel auf unserem fahrplan, und zwar bevor er sich auf den weg macht um zurück nach europa zu segeln ! ........ logisch oder......... ; auf dem weg nach oben liegen St. Vincent, St. Lucia, Martinique, Dominica und Guadeloupe. um mal alle grösseren zu nennen. wir sind mit nur wenigen nachtstops an allen inseln vorbei gefahren, haben aber fleissig ausgeschaut, welche davon am schönsten sind, um sie auf unserem rückweg für uns zu erobern. nur südlich von Guadeloupe, auf den Iles les Saintes, bleiben wir ein paar tage. als wir nämlich in die ankerbucht einfahren, die wir uns für die nacht ausgeguckt haben, sehen wir zufällig vertraute gesichter! das spanische pärchen Albert und Esther, bekannte von den Kanarischen Inseln, liegen hier mit ihrem boot. Albert läd uns promt zu der versprochenen tortilla ein, die er uns auf Gran Canaria zwecks fehlender eier nicht kredenzen konnte. dann geht es weiter durch Guadeloupe durch, nach Antigua. die aufmerksameren leser wundern sich jetzt hoffentlich ein bisschen, aber das war absicht. Guadeloupe besteht nämlich aus zwei nahegelegenen inseln die von oben berachtet wie ein gigantischer schmetterling aussehen. in der mitte trennt sie nur ein kleiner schiffbarer fluss. wir sind sozusagen in den arsch vom schmetterling hineingefahren, durch den körper hindurch und zum maul ( oder wie auch immer das bei schmetterlingen heist ) wieder hinaus. das ist aber noch nicht alles was hier seltsam ist, kurioserweise ist der eine " flügel " Guadeloupes eine vulkaninsel mit riesigen bergen und dem grössten wasserfall den wir bis jetzt gesehen haben (drei stufen: einmal 130m dann 110m und noch einmal langweilige 20m ), und der andere flügel besteht aus einer art kalkgestein, der landschaftlich an einen grossen pfannkuchen erinnert, der auf der meeresoberfläche schwimmt.
angekommen in Antigua wird endlich wieder mehr gefeiert als gesegelt. gleich nachdem der anker liegt kommt Tino angebraust, wir trinken sogleich das traditionelle " ankerbier " und um sicher zu gehn, dass der anker auch wirklich hält, noch ein paar hinterher. dann gehen wir zur zollbehörde, checken ein und erfahren von einem netten beamten, dass es auf der insel 365 verschiedene strände gibt, das lokale bier den melodischen namen Wadadli trägt, und wenn wir uns entscheiden würden hier zu heiraten, würde er uns eine strandtrauung organisieren bei der viel Wadadli getrunken wird, woraufhin dann alle, inklusive pfarrer und selbstverständlich ihm selbst, wilde nackttänze am strand aufführen würden. klingt interessant, also sind wir schnurgerade in die nächste bar und haben uns Wadadli bestellt, haben aber schnell herausgefunden, dass uns wadadli eher zum jammer als zum feiern bewegt und somit haben wir die party abgesagt. stattdessen treffen wir Tino öfters und machen, kurz bevor er aufbricht, auf der 20-meter-ketsch die er skippert einen tagestörn. mit uns sind seine kids und mindestens 10 weitere an bord und feiern abschied. paps segelt bald nach England. es gibt wunderschöne wanderwege auf Antigua, deshalb drängen wir uns gegenseitig zu viel bewegung. eines nachmittags ziehen wir mit dem norweger Christian los und verirren uns dabei hoffnungslos im wald. wir folgen einem ausgetrockneten bach bis wir die ruinen einer alten befestigungsanlage entdecken. sie stammen noch aus den zeiten der grossen kriegsschiffe, die Admiral Nelson auf Antigua in der gut geschützten bucht namens English Harbour vor feinden und hurricans versteckt hatte. wir kriechen weiter durch das dickicht in richtung der geräusche, die eine strasse vermuten lassen, stolpern über drei grabsteine aus dem 18 jahrhundert, wundern uns schon gar nicht mehr über die seltamen funde in diesem wald und schaffen es irgendwann tatsächlich, zeichen von zivilisation zu entdecken. mit zerkratzten armen und beinen und kleinem getier im haar laufen wir die strasse entlang und finden auf einem hügel gelegen eine grosse bar und viele gutgelaunte menschen, live musik und eine atemberaubende aussicht auf den sonnenuntergang hinter English Harbour. das einzige was uns bei dieser aussicht überhaupt nicht gefällt, ist Didier Plane. er hat ein paar stunden zuvor bei einem verpatzten ankermanöver unter segeln unser schiff gerammt, und jetzt belästigt er uns tatsächlich auch noch abends auf der gleichen party. bei diesem bootscrash ist es mir und noch zwei helfern mit ihren dingis nach 45 minuten ziehen und schieben endlich gelungen seine kiste zu ankern (sein motor war kaputt, aber es gab genügend platz, wo er hätte ankern können, ohne die anderen schiffe in der bucht zu gefährden), woraufhin wir aber nochmal umparken mussten, weil er zum einen unseren anker herausgerissen hat und dann natürlich genau auf unserm platzt stand. er ist weder auf die idee gekommen uns einen drink für unsere hilfe auszugeben, noch den schaden zu bezahlen den er verursacht hat. das muss man sich mal vorstellen, der kommt mit einer 20-meter-yacht mit 40 tonnen, die soviel wie eine kleine villa kostet, auf unser süsses boot zugebraust, und drückt sich dann vor der verantwortung. bis zum vorabend des tages als wir den kostenvoranschlag bekommen sollten, war er freundlich und kooperativ, und am nächsten tag war er weg und wir mit unserer rechnung über 850 us-dollar alleine. wenn ihr den mal trefft dann richtet ihm aus, dass er mir besser nicht im dunklen begegnen sollte.
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