die Wunderwelt des Salto Angel (hoechster Wasserfall der Welt)

von börni 22. Okt 2009 19:35

zu zehnt brechen wir bei sonnenaufgang mit einem speedboot(40 minuten mit atemberaubenden 60 knoten) auf zu der nächstglegenen strasse in Bocca Uracoa. dort stehen drei taxis bereit, die uns auf die 2,5 stündige rasante fahrt in die stadt Ciudad Bolivar und ihrem flughafen mitnehmen. wir verteilen uns auf zwei 6-sitzige Cesnas und sind froh, daß wir die klapperkiste nicht auch noch selber fliegen müssen. eine weitere stunde und wir sind wieder mal an einem ort, zu dem keinerlei verbindung mit dem auto möglich ist. es folgt ein kurzer trip mit einem touristenfrachttraktor von der landebahn in dem dorf Canaima (die indianische gottheit des bösen) zu dem boot, das uns den Rio Carrao und den Rio Shurun hinauf zu unserem nachtlager bringt. das ist ganz in der nähe des Salto Angel, der sich vom "gipfel" des tafelberges Auyan-tepui bis zu seinem fuss 1000 meter in die tiefe stürzt, der höchste wasserfall der welt ist, und erst 1935 von der westlichen welt entdeckt wurde. hört sich sehr magisch und abenteuerlich an und war in der tat sehr ereignissreich. wir sind 4,5 stunden zu acht plus drei helfern in einem riesigen wildwasser-einbaum und 50 ps durch stromschnellen und seichtes wasser flussaufwärts gefahren, daß man sich nur wundert was alles möglich ist auf dieser schönen welt. wir schlafen in hängematten und wandern am nächsten tag zum aussichtspunkt und einer badegumpe die leider nicht direkt am fusse des falls liegt. und doch überblickt man den ganzen majestätischen wasserfall, badet dabei in einem köstlich erfrischenden gebirgswasser, das nur etwa eiskalte 25 grad hatte, kommt sich winzig klein vor und macht sich allerhand gedanken über naturgottheiten.

das waren spektakuläre drei tage. zum ersten mal: -mit 110 kmh auf dem wasser unterwegs gewesen; -mit einer winzigen cesna geflogen; -stundenlanges river-rafting mit selberanpacken bergauf und bergab; -den höchsten wasserfall der erde gesehen, der je nach regenquantum viel bis sehr viel wasser führt; -eine spanische touristin, die nicht schwimmen konnte und von der strömung ins tiefe wasser gezogen wurde, rausgefischt, zusammen mit ihrem fetten alten, der sich die seele aus dem leib geschrien hat; -die grösste ameise der welt gesehen, deren stich 24 stunden zum umfallen weh tut, und deshalb auch so heisst; -eine tigerameise und viele andere bemerkenswerte dinge gesehen und erlebt, für die mir, um sie hier alle zu erwähnen jetzt jedoch die musse fehlt. jedenfalls echt spitze alles in allem. der rückweg war ein bisschen mühsamer, mit langen streitereien mit unserem taxifahrer, bis wir dann schliesslich ein anderes taxi aufgetan haben, aber so spät dran waren, daß wir natürlich unser bootstaxi verpasst haben, weil das im dunkeln nicht fahren kann. so sitzen wir die ganze nacht in Bocca Uracoa auf der strasse, beobachten, wie um 5 uhr morgens der markt, der nur einmal im monat stattfindet, aufgebaut wird und warten auf unser boot, das wir dann natürlich nochmal bezahlen müssen. erschöpft und glücklich am boot angekommen gönnen wir uns ein paar ausgezeichnete caipis in der Orinoco Delta Lodge, quatschen viel mit James, dem barmann und gehn sehr früh schlafen.

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auf zu der nächstglegenen strasse in Bocca

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