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am mittwoch, den 28.10. laufen wir um 6 uhr morgens bei aufgehender sonne und mit drei wunderbaren goldmakrelen im netz in der bucht von Hog Island ein, ach wie schön wieder hier zu sein! viele alte und wie immer auch neue gesichter, die tage und wochen verfliegen und am 18. November kommen dann Julian und Agnes geflogen. die bleiben für 4 wochen bei uns an bord und wir erleben viele schöne abendteuer miteinander. unter anderem:
-Hog Island brennt. die ganze nacht sieht man den feuerschein und riecht den rauch. am nächsten tag sehen wir, dass etwa ein drittel der insel schwarz ist. die bäume und grösseren büsche haben das feuer zum glück überlebt. wir retten einen noch schwelenden baum indem wir wasser in einer grossen conch-muschel vom meer holen
-Joe feiert seinen 50. geburtstag mit spanferkel und livemusik auf Hog. praktischerweise ist das der gleiche tag, an dem wir uns verabschieden, denn am nächsten tag wollen wir weitersegeln. also haben wir eine tolle abschiedsparty mit spanferkel und livemusik für umme.
-bepflanzen den einbaum am tag unseres abschiedes mit agaven und kakteen (leider hat es das salzwasser nicht gemocht und ist ein wenig gespalten, also spenden wir es Rogers Bar auf Hog Island als blumenbeet)
-goodbye Hog Island, goodbye to all our friends there-hope we´ll stay in contact. thanks for all!
-entdecken isle Ronde, eine unbewohnte robinson-insel mit schönstem schnorchelriff und einem langen, palmenbestandenen sandstrand ganz für uns alleine. Julian und Börni lernen cocospalmen zu besteigen und laden so viele nüsse in unser dingi, dass wir auf dem weg zurück zur Kismet fast untergehen. das wasser schlägt ins boot und da es mit 4 personen eh schon völlig überladen ist, müssen wir schnell ein paar nüsse über bord werfen um uns zu retten.
-wir angeln einen hai. mindestens 1 meter lang. der guckt aber so süss und unschuldig drein, dass wir es nicht übers herz bringen ihn zu erdolchen. also kappen wir die leine und lassen ihn seine wege ziehen
-schnorcheln in den Tobago Cays mit schildkröten und haien
-backen am 6. dezember mit Bea und Peter auf der Bajazzo "GRATIMA", ein schweizerisches traditionelles nikolausgebäck. jeder formt aus hefeteig selbst ein männchen, dass er dann später auch selbst verschlingen darf. dazu gibt es literweise kakao. wir bekommen alle einen zuckerschock und können uns den restlichen tag nicht mehr rühren
-nochmal weihnachts"gebäck". wir rollen rum-nuss- und cocos-dattel-kugeln, verschenken sie aber auch gleich wieder an 2 boote, die unser treues und einziges dingi vor dem sicheren abdriften bis an die venezuelanische küste gerettet haben
-wir "fangen" einen riesenschwarm delfine ein, mindestens 200 stück, die dann auch fröhlich um unser boot tanzen und uns mit mindestens 3facher rolle seitwärts (paarmal drehen um die eigene achse ausserhalb des wassers) schwer beeindrucken
-wir gehen auf st. vincent in der berüchtigten Cumberland-Bay vor anker, in der wir allerdings nur gute und sehr gute erfahrungen machen
-vulkanbesteigung. Logi, unserer guide und seines zeichens Rasta, zeigt uns stolz die vielen marihuanaplantagen am hang des soufriere. auf Börnis frage, ob die polizei die felder nicht abbrennt, antwortet er: "they can´t burn it all. it´s all over..."
-Börni und Julian segeln allein raus um todesmutig sturmtaktiken zu üben
nach 4 schönen gemeinsamen wochen lassen uns Agnes und Julian wieder alleine und wir wiederstehen nur zögerlich dem freundlichen angebot von Carlos, der übrigens ein genauso begnadeter tänzer ist wie Adriano Celentano, bei sich und seiner familie zuhause weihnachten zu feiern. wir haben dummerweise schon ausgecheckt und könnten massiven ärger mit den behörden kriegen, wenn wir nicht in den nächsten 24 stunden die insel verlassen. ausserdem wollen wir ja auch weiter. und weihnachten auf hoher see verbringen, irgendwo zwischen Martinique und der Dominikanischen Republik. wird aber wieder nix, wie soviele pläne zuvor auch. der wind bläst nicht so wie er soll, da ist eine störung genau auf unserer strecke, und das wollen wir uns nicht antun. also segeln wir, nachdem wir uns mit europäischen köstlichkeiten verproviantiert haben (Martinique ist ja quasi Frankreich) erstmal nur weiter bis Dominica. weils uns da auch so gut gefallen hat. und weil die leute dort sehr partyfreudig sind, wollen wir sylvester auf Dominica mitnehmen, weil wir es letztes jahr auf Tobago ja einfach verschlafen haben. die kariben ansich lechzen nach jeder sich bietenden gelegenheit um ein tolles fest mit lauter musik zu feiern. in St. Vincent zum beispiel gibt es die sogenannten "nine mornings". sie stehen, wenn es nur noch neun tage bis weihnachten sind, jeden morgen gegen drei oder vier uhr auf, feiern mit livemusik, tanz und tamtam bis sieben uhr und gehen dann zur arbeit. neun tage lang! dennoch: unerwarteterweise feiern die Dominikaner gar nicht sylvester. es ist fast nix los auf den strassen von Portsmouth. ein paar locals lungern rum, wie immer, und ein paar andere segler auch, aber sonst-nix los! schade eigentlich. wir betrinken uns trotzdem recht anständig zusammen mit leisha und greg, 2 australiern, die noch ein bisschen jünger sind als wir und segelnderweise auf dem weg nach hause sind, und fallen uns wie es sich gehört, die besten wünsche lallend, pünktlich um 24 uhr in die arme. eine einsame rakete steigt etwas entfernt am himmel auf. und das wars auch. unser kater reicht für zwei tage und dann verabschieden wir uns leise von den kleinen antillen.
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