kuba ansich

von börni 12. Apr 2010 20:11

wir segeln noch etwa 3 wochen auf und ab und hin und her, sind begeistert von der vielfalt der inseln und ankermöglichkeiten. auf der odin entstauben wir eines tages ne tauchausrüstung inklusive tauchkompressor und tauchen um die wette. dabei finden wir unseren ersten schatz! ein warscheinlich eineinhalb tonnen schwerer stockanker, der schon ein paar jahrhunderte auf dem buckel haben könnte und der uns selbst um einiges an grösse überragt. er war kunstvoll von korallen und pflanzen verziert und von fischen bewohnt, aber noch deutlich zu erkennen. wir haben nach einem dazugehörigen wrack ausschau gehalten und natürlich nach dem richtigen schatz, der hier ja irgendwo rumliegen muss, aber leider nada !

dann gehen uns irgendwann die vorräte aus und von fisch haben wir auch erst mal genug. ich glaube wir haben in den letzten 3 wochen langusten und garnelen im (europäischen) wert von 1000 euro verschlungen. hier ist alles voll davon. um dem eiweisschock zu entgehen, brechen wir auf nach Cienfuegos, die stadt der hundert feuer. wieder hausdurchsuchung, fragen und kontrollen. sind wir ja von bayern gewöhnt und fühlen uns fast wie zuhause.

die zivilisation hat auch etwas gutes! wir geniessen kaffee und kuchen, finden einen obst- und gemüsemarkt, eine bummelstrasse und ein grosses theater.

am ersten abend grillen wir an bord der Baju, eines alukatamarans der von Heike und Stefan bewohnt und um die welt gesegelt wird. Ute und Bertl von der Odin sind natürlich mit von der fröhlichen partie, die immer feuchter zu werden scheint. nach dem essen setzt sich langsam der kubanische rum, während wir uns einer nach dem anderen erheben. die musik wird immer lauter und das cockpit der Baju zu einem rot beleuchteten tanzsalon. Stefan und mir wird es zu eng, wir klettern den mast empor und tanzen auf der ersten saling weiter. als das zu kalt und kippelig wird, machen wir uns auf in den nahegelegenen klub Artex und tanzen da weiter. von dort holen wir uns alle nen ausgewachsenen kater mit an bord ( hoffentlich sind haustiere erlaubt in Kuba ). schön wars.

am nächsten abend ziehen die gleiche gang + k´toun ( catoon gesprochen ) und philippe, unsere französischen freunde, die wir schon hier und da in der Karibischen inselwelt getroffen haben, los und sehen uns ein konzert in dem pompösen stadttheater an. ein wunderschöner bau, mit rundem saal und balkonen, und mit kunstvollen säulen und fresken geschmückt. er erinnert mich irgendwie an die pracht der Titanik.

der vergleich auch deswegen, weil die glanzvollen tage dieses theaters offenkundig der vergangenheit angehören, genau wie in der übrigen stadt. die wunderschönen gebäude im kolonialstil trotzen so gut wie möglich dem verfall und verleihen dem ganzen ort einen morbiden aber romantischen charm. vor den häusern glänzen die wunderschön blitzenden chevrolets, doges, cadillacs und fords aus den fünzigern und sind der ganze stolz ihrer besitzer. es gibt nur wenige autos und so gut wie keine autos jüngeren datums, so dass sich der öffentliche verkehr zumindest hier in Cienfuegos unter anderem auf pferdekutschen verteilt !!! kein scherz, die kutschen sind hier nicht als touristenatraktion und -beförderung gedacht, sondern werden zum tranport von mensch und material verwendet, fast wie damals kurz nach der steinzeit.

die menschen hier sind ähnlich konserviert worden wie ihre autos, sie sind fröhlich, freundlich und aufgeschlossen. warum dann eigentlich konserviert? ganz einfach, nach der revolution gab es nicht nur ein handelsembargo und importstop ( siehe autos ) sondern auch einen informationsstop. seitdem gibt es in Kuba genau eine zeitung, einen radiosender mit nachrichten und einen fernsehnachrichtensender. natürlich sind diese foren staatlich, so dass die bevölkerung ausser der reichspropaganda garnicht mitbekommt was sich in der immer noch weiten welt und sogar im eigenen land abspielt. internetzugang gibt es fast ausschliesslich in den hotels und kostet ein vermögen. ein Kubaner müsste ungefähr seinen halben monatslohn ( im durchschnitt 15 dollar ) opfern, um nur eine stunde zu surfen.

auffällig ist, dass wenig müll in den strassen liegt. kaum zu glauben, die Kubaner können es sich noch nicht mal leisten, ihren müll wegzuwerfen. ok, ich übertreibe natürlich, aber tatsächlich wird alles aufgehoben, aus dem man noch irgendwas nützliches basteln kann. leere rumflaschen werden zum beispiel in der mitte zerschnitten und trinkgläser daraus gemacht.

auch wird die kubanische bevölkerung von den touristen so gut es geht auseinandergehalten. es gibt zb. einkaufsmöglicheiten für Kubaner die wir nicht nutzen dürfen und umgekehrt. touristen sind von öffentlichen transportmitteln ausgeschlossen. es gibt taxis und reisveranstalter um von hafen und flughafen zu den hotels und sehenswürdigkeiten zu gelangen. wer ein bisschen individueller reisen will, braucht ein mietauto, oder er läuft zu fuss. beim segeln ist das ähnlich. wir dürfen nur an land wo es einen zollhafen gibt von dem jeder landgang überwacht wird ( inklusive taschenkontrollen ).

das heißt, es macht sinn sich freunde zu machen. ein kleines geschenk ist schon genug, zb.ein stück seife mit erdbeeraroma für die frau des zöllners, oder ein kleines spielzeug für ihn oder seine kinder, darüber freuen sich hier alle riesig.

in dunklen gassen werden wir unauffällig gerufen, aber man will uns nicht etwa drogen verkaufen, nein nein (schade), es geht hier um ordinäre kartoffeln oder bananen. der verkäufer dreht dabei hektisch den kopf, um sich zu vergewissern, dass niemand in der nähe ist und zeigt uns seine frische ware. soweit so schön, wir versuchen das alles wertefrei zu sehen und halten unser temperament soweit wie möglich unter kontrolle sobald die omnipräsenten behörden etwas von uns wollen.

auf der anderen seite muss man zugeben hat das system auch etwas gutes. die medizinische versorgung ist gut und kostenlos (die kindersterblichkeit ist geringer als ind den USA). bildung ist frei genau wie wohnung und essen. letzteres natürlich nicht elegant, aber es reicht wohl für ein dach über jedem kubanischen kopf. was schliesslich nicht in allen karibischen und zentralamerikanischen ländern der fall ist.

und scheinbar leiden die meisten auch nicht an überarbeitung. in einem fall konnten wir beobachten, wie 8 mann in blauem overall ein einziges verkehrsschild aufgestellt haben. einer hat den spaten angehoben, der nächste in die erde gestossen und ein weiterer damit die erde rausgehoben. währenddessen haben die anderen 5 abwechselnd das schild gehalten. so ungefähr. und auf Cayo Largo haben wir 10 frauen beim putzen einer fensterfront mit 3 fenstern gesehen. alles in allem geht es dem Kubaner also ganz guat. .

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